Cell Phones & A Crash Course in East African Politics

This weekend was rather uneventful, a trip with my family to visit a school my host brother hopes to go to all day Saturday, and church and a meeting with the director of the NGO I will be interning with on Sunday. Therefore, I want to write about two things I think deserve attention, the first of which is the really innovative ways Africans are using cell phone technology!

When someone mentions "Kenya" inginuity and innovation are probally not the first things to come to mind. As a country regarded as a member of the "global south" there are a host of development problems, from hungar to HIV/AIDS, to pollitical corruption that probally first occupy any thoughts about the country. But the good news is, that in a post structural adjustment era, as those big multilateral players in development have finally realized that there may be more to development and fighting poverty than GDP growth and oppresive cnditionality, home grown, truely "African" solutions are begining to emerge that frankly just make sense for these countries and their unique contexts. One more globalexample is obviously the advent of microcredit, which was developed by Nobel Prize winner Mohammed Yunis in Bandledesh, and which has been very succesful. In Kenya there has too been some really interesting and ingenious revolutions in finance and the whole concept of banking. A few years back in order to get a bank account one had only multinational banks to chose from, and minimum accunt balances were the equivalent of a couple hundred US dollars, significantly out of reach of many many Kenyans. Then, a home grown bank came along that offered accounts with a minimum of 100 shillings, about $1.20 US, which made bank accounts available to a much larger population. Another industry that has boomed is cell phones. For about US $25 you can get a cell phone, and they are pay as you go, with rates that are incredibly low, a shilling a minute or so in network. While both affordable cell phones and access to banking are good developments in and of themselves, what is really innovative is how they have been combined in Kenya to create a mobile bankng system that is incredibly pioneering. In fact, there is an article about this very topic in last weeks Time Magazine. Essentially, one can hook their bank account up to their mobile phone account, or simply just load money directly to a mobile phone account. With this mobile money, using just a simple, cheap, no 3G required cell phone (think old brick of a nokia) one can make purchases at an extrodanarily huge number of retail outlets, pay bills, and even transfer money to other mobile phone accounts, just by using the other persons phone number -- to help a friend out in a jam, or pay for services such as a taxi ride by sending money to the drivers phone (and if your phone gets stolen -- a password is required, so you wont loose any money). It essentially works in place of a debit or credit card and is accessable to a whole range of socioeconomic levels that previously had no access to any similar services, all that is needed is the phone. I heard and/or read somewhere it explained like this: In the US you often need a bank account as a credit check to get a phone. In Kenya, you use a phone as a credit check for a bank account.

The other thing I have found fascinating here are some of the political issues facing Kenya and Eastern Africa that don't seem to make the headlines in the US, ecspecially with all the developments emerging from North Africa and the Middle East. Most people probally remember the massive post-election violence in Kenya in 2008 that killed over 1000 people and displaced many many many more (many of whom still remain in internal displacement camps 4 years later). What came of this was a power sharing arrangement where Moi Kibaki became president and shared power with Prime Minister Ralia Odinga. This appears to be a rocky relationship. In almost every daily paper here, there is guarenteed to be a story involving dissagreements between the two sides, and at the ministerial level, the underlying tribal conflict seems fierce. In fact, the recent political alliance of the Kikuyu, kalanjin, and kamba peoples have been some what ironically dubbed the "KKK". However, for most Kenyans, it seems to me,a lot of what is happening is frustrating, and there seems to be anticipation for a new set of elections and the implementation of the new constitution that was voted in in August. One area where the Kibaki - Odinga rift might have reached the international stage is in the response of the Kenyan government to the International Criminal COurt (ICC) inditement of 6 Kenyans, majority being high up Kenyan officials still holding office, in the post election violence. Essentially, Kibaki wants to get the case deffered so that it can be tried in Kenyan courts, which he claims are being established now (Kenya's current judicial system is far from being world renowned), and has sent his Vice President on a mission around Africa, and eventually the AU (African Union) summit, gaining other countries support. Odinga claims to not support this shuttle diplomacy. The ICC has come out and said that this is futile and pointless, and that the only productive path is to talk to them. From the point of view of the Kenyans I've talked to, this is all pretty embarassing, and the Government is making a fool of itself diplomatically, and it seems like majority of citizens would be supportive of the ICC and many think this whole move is a glorified way of protecting those indicted from any real punishment. I think most Kenyans, most Africans, just want justice and are tired of these sorts of antics, which seem to be the rule and not the exception in Africa. For example, there is the issue of Gbagbo refusing to step down from power after losing the recent election in the Cote d'Ivoire (and whats equally frustrating, the recent turn of events where the AU seems to be softening on the strong international stance that he peacefully relinquish power). The AU itself seems to have made a questionable choice this weekend, chosing as its new chairman Equitorial Guinea's Nguema, a dicator in power for multiple decades with a horrible human right record, and of course there are the strong hold characters, like Zimbabwe's Mugabe. However, with calls for democracy seeming to take off across the north of the contenent, and the fact that Southern Sudan managed an all things considered peacefull referendum (99% chose yes) to form its own country, things may not be all grim. While there are always risks of bad outcomes, extremism taking hold in north Africa, bloodshed and fighting over contested oil-rich areas on the boarder between noth and south sudan -- as one Op-Ed I read today said, "There is a Devil Behind Every Door" -- there is also always hope, and in this continent, great potential.

I guess that is all part of why they say:

TIA
(This is Africa)

Found: Our Kenyan Oasis

Today was Friday and we had a laf day of class. After class we went to this little hole in the wall sort of egyptian place near school that is definately going to be our new spot. From the road you could barely tell it was a restaurant, but when you walk in, it was a huge outdoor yard, shaded and breezy, with tables and chairs, as well as bigg comfy couches. The food was cheap, and they didnt seem to mind serving cold tusker before 5. You could get a beer and falafel sandwich (my favorite food) for 220 shllings, less than 3 bucks. Also, you get coplementary shisha with your food. Not to mention free and super fasdt wireless! COmbine all of this with the fact that the owner was super nice, letting us play our music through the speakers, and letting us sample what is probally the best hummus ive ever had, we stayed for about 3.5 hours, talking, eating, smoking hooka, and reading the papers.

I am really liking my classes so far. Both y development classes are taught by Dr. Jama, who is an Environmenal Economist by training, and who also works at University of Nairobi. He seems very intelligent, and I am so excited to hear the African perspective on development issues!!! Swahili class is nzuri sana (very good), and I am glad I took swahili last semester so I could start at the intermediate level now. I hope I can get quite good while Im here! Our class on Kenya is also fascinating. The professor, Fred, is very funny, and what we are leaning about precolonial and colonial Kenya right now is so interesting, ecspecially when it relates to issues that are still critical in Kenya today, like tribalism.

I have been trying to read the Kenyan papers everyday, as well as the Times and such to stay up to date on Kenyan and global issues. I consider myself a pretty aware Amaerican at home, but coming to kenya, I was amazed at how aware everyone is when it comes not just to their own issues, but to issues in the United States and elsewhere in the world. Many of our host families actually stayed up to wath the state of the union, which so many americans dont even watch. It really has made me realize that as a country, as citizens of America -- me included -- blessed with a position of such power and prestge in the world, we really fail at basic awareness of whats going on aroud us, how this implicates others, and how we fit into the world and what goes on in it. Im not sure if I wasnt currently in Africa, if I would be aware of the uprisings taking place in Tunisia, Egypt, Algeria, Yemen, Jordan, etc... all around Northern African andthe Middle East calling for the end of decades long one party leadership, and calling for more democracy and more freedoms. These are important events, not just for Northern Africa, but for all the world, because, today more than ever, we really are interconnected. It is embrassing in a way that while Africans realize this as if it were plain as day, many of us cannot grasp this critical concept.

Week 1 -- Hujambo Kenya

Its been 1 week since I left for Kenya. Its been amazing so far. The first night we stayed at a hostel nearr Nairobi National Park. That morning we wok eup to see monkeys right outside, which was such a cool suprise to start the trip. Durig the morning we changed our American Dollars into Kenyan Shillings, and Went through all the paperwork and fingerprinting (all 10 fingers) to get a pupil pass, which makes you an official resident of Kenya. The we drove to Nakuru National Park, where on the way we got out first glimpses at the stunning rift valley! At Nakuru we saw all sorts of animals -- baboons (which turned out to be ncredibly annoying), water buffalo, all sorts of deer-like animals, flamings, zebras, hyenas, hippos (viboko), warthogs, rhinos (vifaru), girafes (twiga), and even lions (simba) -- (pictures to come). We also got a chance to get to know each other and all the MSID staff, and to go through orientation, which was so helpful. We also got a chance to go into the town of Nakuru, where we got to practice our barganing buying fruit from the market. (Only pay 20 shillings for a mango, 5 for a banana -- hint: 80 shilings = 1 dollar). And the fruit is so amazing and fresh! We also got used to chai --milky tea that kenyans love and that I am getting used to ("Every Time is Tea Time"). We also tasted a pourrage like dish that tasted like oatmeal and apples that I actually had for breakfast this morning at mmy homestay! We also found out our internships we will be doing. I had requested to intern at the CYEC, an orginisation in Nyeri that I have done research like work for through coursework at PSU. I figured that if it fit into their existing structures I would be able to do it, and if not I would simply intern elseware. I was so suprised and grsteful to find out how much work they put into maing my internship happen, and into finding other internships in the area for some of the other students so that I was not alone iin the area! Everyone here is so nice. Yesterday we drove back to Nairobi and met our host families (ps -- they drive on the wrong side of the road like the Bristish -- so weird). Mine is incredibly nice, I have a mom and a dad, and little brothers that are 11 (Tua) and 12 (Eric), as well as incredbly nice househelp. My brothers are incredibly smart, and like things like space and dinasaurs, and cartoon movies. We watched a lot of BBC and Discovery shows! Shortly after getting there, we took the youngest brother to a birthday party at a place called village market that was like a giant mall complex, with restaurants, shops, a bowling alley, a movie theatre, a waterpark, and mini golf, it was pretty happening haha. On the way there and back the older brother pointed out all the buildings and landmarks we passed. The funniest thing he said: "Thats the anticorruption comittee -- they are very busy." Listening to my family, and spending tiem with them, there is a lot more in common with American families than I would have expected. Today we are just relaxing around the house. They actually get many American TV channels, although with one of these being the E! network, its no wonder many people have negative views of Americans! Tomorrow I go to school, but we are getting shown around Nairobi, getting phones and internet modems, and all of that. Tuesday we start classes,I am excited to improve my kiswahili, learn more about Kenya, and also about International Development, ecspecially from an African Perspective.

Kwaherini

Departing

Todays the day! Leaving for my 4.5 month trip in 15 mins! In apprixametly 24 hours, I will be in Kenya! Feeling both excited and nervous, wish me luck. Hopefully I'll make sure to keep this updated with all the cool things I do, experience, and learn! Wish me luck.