This is Africa.
I am finding Kenya to be a truly fascinating place. It is full of unique an interesting contradictions and idiosyncrasies that make it a really vibrant example of what it means to be a "developing country," ecspecially in the sense that development today can be somewhat synominous (unfortuently in many aspects) with americanisation. In many ways Kenya reminds me more of America than Italy did. Kenya has shopping malls complete with food courts, coffee chains, clothing stores, sport stores, book stores, and even Apple stores. Italians would probally rather vomit than construct such a thing. When I lost my computer charger in Italy, I never was able to find out how to replace it. If I lose my chaarger here, it would be a short trip to the mall, maybe even the massive walmart-like grocery store, to relace it. There are other American like institutions that seem to have seeped into the cultural framework of many parts of Kenya. DsTV, the satelite company many people use for television has E! network, disney channel, and dscovery channel. In fact, Kenya may have more American TV channels than Canada, in this is in addition to the massive amount of british television. But what makes this country so unique is how things so western live side by side with that which is so African. This can be humourous and somewhat sad, such as when you see so many landrovers and mercedes driving on what have to be the worst roads I have every seen. There are shoping malls and nice cars and American television, but then you walk down the street among beggars, roadside vendors, matatus crammed with 20 people and a fre collecter hangingout, wires hanging in ways that dont seem safe, and people cooking on outdoor fires in conditions far from snaitary. Hopefully some of this can change, and things can get a little safer, better for those struggling, but there is something really wonderful and unique about Kenya, the good side of TIA, that I hope is never lost. Like being able to get a great Kenyan meal at my school for less than a dollar, the fact that fresh fruit and vegetables are cheaper thaan junk, the seemless mixing of endlish and kiswahili in the way people talk (my family only calls chicken by its kiswahili name -- kuku), the way the culture is so open and sharing, with my house getting visitors in such a friendly and open way that is just not possible in us culture, and the thrill of market shopping. There is nothing quite like going to Masai Market and hagling down from a mzungu price to a slightly less mzungu price. This past weekend i got a bag, a medium sized painting, 3 necklaces, and a elephnt figurine made out of tusker bottle caps for the equivalent of $15 US, which was pretty good i thought. All in all, despite the contradictions, the inconruities,there is something very vibrant and unique about the crazy frenzy that is Nairobi. There is something so uniquely African about being able to go to a mall that sells Ipods and iced lattes or a grocery store with CornFlakes and Mac & Cheese, but also to a crazy outdoor market with 20 shilling scarves and old american tshirts or a roadside stall selling mangos and 50 shilling bootlegged DVDs.
While I still cringe when i see someone boiling a plastic container in water, and I definetly learned the wrong way about eating fruit strait from the market without washing it, there is something charming about Kenya. While I hope things get better for all the hardworking people here -- and they are so hard working and ingenious, its only a matter of time before the take control of this place and make it great -- I hope they carve out their own development, and really retain their vibrant culture.
When it comes to Kenya, there is really only one thing to say:
TIA
Thanks for the post Paige...I just love getting them! I Love you! Mom
ReplyDeleteYou ate fruit without washing!? I guess that's why the blogs stopped for a while. I can see it! Getting carried away coz everyone does it with no worry or care! Ah! I remember there was a time I could almost eat nails. But this FDA and USDA stuff makes one wimpy. You need to slowly acclimatize, build toughness, one small morsel at a time. Since you'll be staying with Kikuyu folks, maybe one day, a big maybe, you'll be able to eat "ngerima" or the ultimate, "thenga twarie" which translates to "move aside so we can discuss" or "excuse us so we can talk". I will let you find out yourself about this ultra-traditional Kikuyu delicacy, but please pay heed - proceed with CAUTION. My wife tells me not to make fun of this because this will get Mom and Dad worried about a daughter in another country. So I have tried my level best, and will not put a smiley on this.
ReplyDeleteAlfred
I Just Live Alfreds Comments! LOL!
ReplyDeleteHey Paige!
ReplyDeleteI'm glad to see that you are keeping up with a blog while you're in Kenya. You seem to be more easily connected to the outside world with internet access and newspaper access more than I had in Ghana. Maybe you are just making more of an effort than I did!
I can identify with what you are saying about the strange paradoxical relationships between giant shopping malls and small markets and big fancy cars and beggars on the street. It always bothered me to walk from my homestay to the tro tro (equivalent of matatus) station through rich neighborhoods with guards at gated compounds 10 feet away from children digging in the trash for food. The disparities exist in America at an even larger scale, but are obscured by a larger middle class and segregated neighborhoods. After awhile in Ghana I just got so fed up with people trying to live like Americans. I worry about the pressure to "develop" overtaking the value of their unique lifestyle not as dependent on natural resources.
On a lighter note, it sucks that you got sick from unwashed fruit! Some girls in my program got what is called "mango face" when they ate the skins of mangos and had an allergic reaction. It's relatively harmless but your face puffs up into this disconfigured mess that is gross to look at! haha
GlobeMed sends it's love and we all miss you! We've had some awesome GHUs and this month is mental health so if you have any input from Kenya, we'd be glad to hear it!
GlobeMed love,
Rachael Kane